HVAC assist system. It cut our peak electricity bill by 40% year over year under similar conditions, too, with substantially better performance.

But really it's very simple. All I'm doing is improving the effectiveness of very traditional methods of temperature control by being more accurate and much more aggressive about exchanging air in and out when appropriate. Obviously in the middle of a 90-110F heat wave that's not going to matter, so it's more of a northern thing - but it really does a great deal in a lot of climates. (And in spring and autumn in more southern climates, I suppose.)

One of the key elements is that outdoor temperature varies a lot from point to point on the property, so we have air exchange measured at five points around the house, keyed to local indoor vs. local outdoor air temperature. (And air quality and a few other things, of course.) The actual air exchange is a combination of the original air-exchange system plus just opening and closing windows. We overcool at night with air exchange so we're always below ambient outdoor temperature during the day.

It's remarkably effective. We went from... well, it varied a lot, but +7 to +10 F above ambient to -7 to -5 below. (I was doing all this in C internally but F because I was talking about it to Americans.)

Again, I'm in an environment where this is particularly effective, but it costs so little and saves so much money and energy use I have to think it has some general utility many places.

Here are some of my posts about it:

https://solarbird.net/blog/tag/ambient-hvac/

Yeah, I guess that makes sense. More sense than the Magic Mouse, at least. xD

Thanks! And honestly it's one of the best parts of 3D printing, being able to come up with things like this.

The really annoying part is that the indoor matching sensor, the companion to this one? That USB port sticks out the side, like it was designed by a sane person. xD

I do, but with a temperature tower. You get top and sides, curves and spanning, overhangs, and, well... temperature. ^_^

Absolutely not. I have nothing against the actor but yeah. Jim Carey every time.

oh that's pretty great :D

When my house got electricity in 1924, they got a backlit front light for over the doorway. It wasn't in good shape when we found it, but it was there, and I got it back together - except for the lighting. Which this really, really makes me want to fix now. :D

Having done this, you can also get a "3D pen" that will work with your filament and that'll work decently well for small areas, and you can also use it to fill in gaps. Overheat the PLA a bit and work fast.

Oh wow, that looks hilarious, but in a fuck yeah you mad lad way. Is it the tower resonating or the part you're printing? If it's the tower I'd bet money you could solve the last of the problems with some kind of wall attachment for the tower. (Clip if you actually do haul it around, bracket if you don't.)

I had similarly good luck with a height mod on my 3V2 but that thing has a lot more mass to it, I expected it to work. I would not have expected this to work.

Yeah, exactly this.

You could also make it more colourful safely for the moment by filling the letters with different colours of play-doh.

Yeah, if you actively like to tinker, the Ender 3 series will give you every opportunity. And sometimes will require it. xD (My 3V2 hasn't really required it, but holy shit is it not stock anymore and I have learned a lot making it that way.)

Seriously though, the Ender 3 community and mods availability is unsurpassed. These things are truly the Model T of printers for both better and worse, and I'm glad I started here, it's been educational as hell and that's part of what I wanted. And it's a bit of a hotrod at this point! Because I made it so. :D

If the extruder is clicking, it's able to grasp the filament. It's that it's trying to move it forward, literally can't, and it slips and makes that click. That also grinds down the filament at the wheel as well.

I've printed fine with eSun PLA+ on an Ender 3 V2, it's a very straightforward filament in my experience. Not my favourite, but it's fine. (Their cleaning filament by contrast is excellent and I recommend it highly.) I would take apart the entire filament path and make sure it is incredibly clean, because this really sounds to me like a recurring clog issue caused by some particulate matter, which can include extraheated filament hat no longer wants to melt right.

I build everything (including our homebrew media server) but for a NAS I still just bought a Synology box. Part of that is the main purpose of the box is to be a RAIDed repository for automatic workstation backups and I was willing to pay for a known-good turnkey device that talks to everything in the world right out the gate.

I haven't regretted it once.