After trying as many suggestions as I could, it seems the one that did the trick was replacing the thermistor entirely. Seems I must have broken it somehow, though the glass bulb and wires were still intact from what I could tell.
3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: !functionalprint@kbin.social or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
Rules
-
No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
-
Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
-
No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
-
No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
-
Do not create links to reddit
-
If you see an issue please flag it
-
No guns
-
No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe/ may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![](URL)
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
Glass bead thermistors have very fragile wires and sometimes you can't see a break that has occured. I replaced mine with a cartridge as fast as possible, but good on you for finding and solving the problem.
Well done and thanks for posting an update!
Next step do a PID tune, that looks fixed but your hotend graph should be way flatter than that with a new PID tune.
How flat should I expect it to get? It's sticking to +/-0.2° of the set temperature at the moment
Ok that fine then, thought that was more then it is.