this post was submitted on 05 Feb 2024
112 points (100.0% liked)

the_dunk_tank

15914 readers
12 users here now

It's the dunk tank.

This is where you come to post big-brained hot takes by chuds, libs, or even fellow leftists, and tear them to itty-bitty pieces with precision dunkstrikes.

Rule 1: All posts must include links to the subject matter, and no identifying information should be redacted.

Rule 2: If your source is a reactionary website, please use archive.is instead of linking directly.

Rule 3: No sectarianism.

Rule 4: TERF/SWERFs Not Welcome

Rule 5: No ableism of any kind (that includes stuff like libt*rd)

Rule 6: Do not post fellow hexbears.

Rule 7: Do not individually target other instances' admins or moderators.

Rule 8: The subject of a post cannot be low hanging fruit, that is comments/posts made by a private person that have low amount of upvotes/likes/views. Comments/Posts made on other instances that are accessible from hexbear are an exception to this. Posts that do not meet this requirement can be posted to !shitreactionariessay@lemmygrad.ml

Rule 9: if you post ironic rage bait im going to make a personal visit to your house to make sure you never make this mistake again

founded 4 years ago
MODERATORS
 

I feel horrible. Like I have been scammed or something. What can I do if anything? I still owe $130,000 on the car and can't even sell it because I would then owe around $60,000 to pay off the loan compared to what I can sell it for.

I love the car, I really do but having a hard time getting over this horrible feeling of being taken advantage of.

and the punchline:

Hol up, you bought a $155k car a year ago, and you still owe $130k on it? How small was your down payment? You are what's called "upside down" on your own loan: you owe more than the value of the thing you took out the loan on.

If you're asking what financially you can do, the answer is nothing; you took out a very large loan with a very small down payment on a depreciating asset. Take this as a lesson about why you don't do that, particularly when said asset can be crashed. All cars depreciate in value. Electric luxury sports cars from a relatively small company depreciate very, very quickly. Never trick yourself into thinking that your agreement to buy that car was ever anything but an agreement to light $155k on fire. In the future, if that's not something you can afford to do, do not buy the car.

If you're asking what you can do to make yourself feel better about your choice, my suggestion would be to try to focus on why you made the decision in the first place. You didn't buy a $155k luxury car with a zillion horsepower because it was a sound financial decision; you bought it because it was fun. Nothing has changed about the car between now and a year ago; it's still just as comfy, and it still rips your dick off when you hit the skinny pedal. The value of the car to you was never momentary, and that value hasn't changed. What can you do? The same thing you were going to do before; out make your payments, and you keep enjoying your car. Don't think about the financial value of the car; think about the value it has to you.

If you are in a situation where you can't afford the loan payments anymore, you're in a much tougher spot. I would talk to a financial planner, cuz you're gonna need to do some clever maneuvering to dig yourself out of that hole. I'm guessing your best bet would be to sell the car for whatever you can get for it, pay off as much of the loan as you can with that lump sum, and try to refinance the remaining $60k or so at a better interest rate. You'd basically be making payments on a $60k loan rather than a $155k loan, which should at least be an easier hit to take each month. If you need a car, buy a reliable used one in cash, and pay off that $60k loan as fast as you can. Swallow your pride and buy an older Prius or something for $10k.

And for the love of god, don't crash the Tesla; the max you're going to get out of your insurance is the cost to replace the vehicle (unless you have gap insurance, which I really, really hope you do). If you total the car tomorrow, the max you're going to get is $86k, and you'll still owe $60k.

you are viewing a single comment's thread
view the rest of the comments
[–] TrudeauCastroson@hexbear.net 4 points 9 months ago (1 children)

Comparing to financial derivatives, a lease has a built-in call option that you also pay a premium for (being able to buy the lease out at the end). You also pay for the depreciation of the car (as you say). And there's also interest you pay on each year of depreciation (so if car is expected to depreciate 8 grand in 4 years, you pay interest on that 8 grand).

Even though as you said, the gap should get bigger between used and new cars, I don't think the loop will fully self correct. Car prices rose like everything else, and I don't think the demand for used cars is really going down because if you're poor you still need a car in North America.

Covid disrupting the car supply lowered the total amount of cars available, and now the price floor for a used car is still pretty high. Old cars still broke down at almost the same rate, and the amount of new cars didn't keep up in replacing it. So now you also pay a premium on being able to buy a used car tomorrow vs waiting months for the new car to get to you eventually.

Idk if car companies actually care about having the same supply/demand balance as before and increasing production. I think they'd rather make more per car, and then invest in the stock market than invest in making stuff. The investment arm of Ford is worth more than the car-making and selling arm.

Your mechanism you talk about is more about the price gap between new and used. Which is effected by what you said (people buying new because used is not worth it), interest rates, inflation, and used car supply.

Admittedly I haven't really taken a good look at the leasing market because I was taught that it's always stupid to carry that much credit on a luxury good that depreciates (parents always told me put money into your own house, or stonks, and drive a beater until you have money to burn).

[–] zed_proclaimer@hexbear.net 3 points 9 months ago* (last edited 9 months ago)

Yes there’s also a rent charge and fees, I took that as a given. Of course the lessor isn’t operating a charity and seeks to make a profit. Those are also present on retails, and much greater. You can pay all monthly payments upfront in a lump sum to reduce it to a negligible amount. It all multiplies off the base amount provided by the depreciation though, so that’s the primary consideration.

There are certain situations where leasing a new car is a very good deal, better than buying new and better than buying even somewhat new. It’s usually when conditions align just right with rebates, clearance of soon to be old model year cars & high residual values. Back when I worked in the industry I saw many leases for cheap cars like Corollas or Jettas that were for around $190/month, and some for electric vehicles that were around $100/month (this was around 2016 when there were cheap rates and big electric rebates)