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submitted 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) by bdonvr@thelemmy.club to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world

I'm actually not afraid of printing things larger than a few square inches on the bed.... Waited way too long for this. Tightening up the eccentric screws on the bed carriage so it doesn't wobble also helps.

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[-] Pissman2020@lemmy.world 8 points 1 week ago

I swapped to glass a few years ago and the things I have learned since are that glass that's too thick will cause you issues with bed temperature, and you can print PETG on it so long as you can guarantee you'll be there when the print finishes to release it with IPA or you'll have chunks of glass missing from your build plate. I got a G10 build plate 2 days ago and sofar I'm liking it more than glass

[-] qwertilliopasd@lemmy.world 6 points 1 week ago

A thin layer of glue stick kept petg from bonding to glass for me, but a nice thick layer of G10 is better as long as you heat soak it before printing. I roughed mine up with some sandpaper and haven't had any issues. Just remember good ppe when working with fiberglass.

[-] adhocfungus@midwest.social 1 points 1 week ago

I had to preheat for 20 minutes when I was using a glass bed. Took ages but the results were so smooth.

[-] Pissman2020@lemmy.world 2 points 1 week ago

When I went to glass it took me an embarrassingly long time to realize I needed to up my bed temp by 10° if I wanted good adhesion

this post was submitted on 28 Sep 2024
145 points (98.0% liked)

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