3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: !functionalprint@kbin.social or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
Rules
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No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
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Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
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No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
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If you see an issue please flag it
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No injury gore posts
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The only thing you mentioned that I would ever need to change between materials is supports, and I very rarely need to print anything with supports. Theoretically it makes sense to reslice for walls and infill so you can make thinner/ lighter models if the material is stronger, but I'd prefer the ease of switching to a perfectly dialed in profile over the occasional savings in material.
The only thing that really needs anything special from the slicer in my experience is PETG with it's funky bridging, everything else can be ignored if you have your material settings perfect. I'm getting much better quality prints with these quick profile swaps than I was quickly re-slicing things with mostly-good settings.
Fair enough, I've found that properly tuned material settings work best for my setup WRTG consistent quality.
Yup exactly, I was being lazy previously and if the settings (ie retraction, flow, pressure advance etc) were "close enough" I wouldn't bother re-slicing, would just reprint and accept the good-enough quality. Now, no need to re-slice, and I get the spot-on material settings I've calibrated