I invoke the deep magicks of nerfhaven. Is there a reason we never used doorknob latches as catch mechanisms? They're already shaped perfectly for a plunger to slide over them, and they come with a built-in trigger mech. Did they just not have strong enough springs, or was there another reason I never saw these in the pre-3D printer days?

Just waiting for a small part from from SFI to put it all together.

Full Album

For the first time in what feels like a long time, the Modulus Longstrike is on sale on Amazon for Prime Day. There are a lot of other blasters on sale as well, but I don't think I've ever seen the Longstrike this cheap.

https://a.co/d/0Y1kcII

With the success of my H2O Eh-Row, I found out it works pretty well on Kiddo 01's little bow. That makes four bow-like blasters, which I just thought was neat!

• The Eh-Row 01 has more experiments waiting for hardware, but seems to work good!
• Eh-Row 02 needs more firm mounting, but you could fight with it as is!
• The old Bow 'n' Arrow needs new arms again, maybe from aluminum bar to keep from snapping.
• The Flipside might be able to take a spring upgrade, but it already works better than you may think! I want to stickerbomb the blank back side, thought.
• Nothing for Grandma, but I don't think she'd deign to shoot anyone in the first place. But... what if...?

Remixes this to be smaller. That is all.

Grip

Suppose you have a long distance you need to fill between the front of a plunger tube and the back of a barrel. Like, you're making a Kenner 95 Crossbow to the original configuration with the barrel on top. Sure, that's a lot of dead space, but you're gonna try it anyway.

...how would you actually do that, anyway? What kind of tubing? What kind of material? How big?

I’m trying to build a Caliburn 4 with as high FPS, accuracy, and quality possible, that’s still fun to actually use.

I don’t own a 3d printer, but I am mechanically minded, and thus perfectly fine with assembling the gun myself. I’m planning on using half-lengths darts to mainly go plinking with it, but still play in a few nerf wars that allow a Caliburn 4.

Money is no object this time around, and I have a few questions before I bite the bullet (excuse the pun) and buy the parts to build one.

1. Who should I buy the 3d printed parts from?
2. What upgrades should I purchase? (ie aluminum ramrod, longer barrel)
3. Who should I buy my SCAR/BCAR from?
4. With the previous questions in mind, what spring(s) can I reasonably use? (No two handed priming)

I love Nerf and I hope this post will help me and others in building their ideal Caliburn 4!

Yea so thing for this thing have been going well but I messed up so many tolerances 💀 oh well more to improve I guess

I bought one in eBay for the drum mags and was wondering if the blaster didn’t fire well what should I do with it? So are they’re any spring i can buy that will work well without me having to buy extra parts? And if not do you have any recommendations?

Kiddo 02 looked like they wanted a Sneak Attacker like 01 had, so I got another. And after fixing a mix-up with the air restrictor, they both got some brass for extra speed and custom dart racks.

While they were really intended for basic blasting needs, they also work well with the ol' Double Deuce Action, i.e. tie a cord to the plunger rings, loop it over the back of your neck, and dual-wield with ease.

Hey Dudebros. There’s finally a native App for iOS. Memmy for Lemmy. Unfortunately it has no N-Strike barrel lug but you can download it here:

https://apps.apple.com/de/app/memmy-for-lemmy/id6450204299

I say "kijiji" becasue that's what people use where I live, but Craigslist/Letgo/etc. can be good too. I have a bookmark folder for each day of the week, full of . . . well, mostly webcomics to be honest, but the point is that there's a link to a kijiji search for "nerf" in each.

It's a system that I've been using for a few years now and I highly recommend it.

The second gearup Recon was a pleasant surprise. I thought that I was doing well to get gearup and crimson in the same lot, but hey, there was more lurking at the bottom of the box.

So today I found a BuzzBeeToys Rapid Fire Tek blaster in a charity shop for a very cheap price, I bought it and it only came with one empty shell, and I'm wondering if it's possible to buy a pair of shells + foam darts to use with this? I know that this is not a Nerf blaster but I was wondering if it was possible for someone here who's really into this stuff could help direct me to where I'm supposed to be asking, or even help me with this.

This is the exact blaster I found Thanks!

Thanks to NerfSG's suggestions and some print testing, some changes have been made to the initial design so here you go! More Ergonomic grip, (relatively) shorter overall length (depends on barrel used) and ambidextrous mag release (User can choose which side they want the mag release on), hopefully this one works better

I'm designing a printed stringer that uses a sled rather than direct string contact, and I'm trying to decide on whether the trigger should pull or push on the catch mech to release. In a direct contact stringer, the catch mech just pushes the string directly upward, so this is all new to me.

The sled is already pushing forward against the catch, so a pulling trigger would press the catch harder into the sled and pull it back further before releasing. A pushing trigger would instead move in the same direction as the string tension, temporarily reducing the load on the catch before releasing.

Is there a significant difference between these two methods? Should I just use a pivoting catch instead? Bear in mind that stringer springloads can get a lot, lot heavier than springers if desired, so I'm thinking in terms of what will be best for these printed parts as they produce constant lateral friction against each other.

https://youtu.be/kA15V2liMR4

Nerf Modulus grip and flywheels split in half, with a Dart Zone Dartstorm belt feed mechanism in the middle. All rewired to 3s lipo batteries.

Heya! I was looking into getting PCB's made for an FDL-3 I would like to build from scratch, as I really do not trust myself to make boards that small. I've looked into PCBway, and after some fiddling, generated gerber .zips from the .brd files. However, the other information for the boards like the layer count, thickness, etc. has me confused, and I was curious if anyone else has looked into making these PCBs, or just making PCB's in general.